Indeed doing this was pretty easy with voxels and the help of the tinker objects, but than comes the hard par (for me), re-topology. I know it's possible to model this directly in a usual polygon based modeler but i wanted to try 3DCoat on this and see if it was easier. I really need to do a combination video tutorial of this method and the one I described in this post.īah, what looked like a good start ended up like a disasterĪs you can see it was a very simple (and boring) mesh and i wanted to give it some details. You just created one mesh with a uv map that you can use for all your identical voxel instances. This might seem alot to do but really it is fast. The mesh will snap to the instance sphere and the uv map will be placed in the uv set you created for it. Use the transform tool to position it over the instance sphere in 3d space, press enter and snap to the instance sphere if you want to. Import the sphere obj mesh you just exported. Make sure you have selected the uv set you just created in the Uv set box. This uv set will recieve the uv map from the exported sphere mesh. Select the Uv set box and in the drop box list select "add new uv set". Now back in the voxel room hide the voxel sphere. not necessary but helps keep things nice and orderly Move the instance sphere off to one side or the other anywhere in 3d spaceĪuto retopo the voxel sphere at 200 polygons just for the test.Įxport that retopo sphere mesh from the retopo room under the retopo menu change the parent of the instance sphere to "Root" under the vox tree tab Make one instance of that sphere, It will make the instance sphere a child of that sphere. Topology is must cleaner when done manuallyĪs far as the symmetry thing, 3d coat is a lil buggy.Test this out just with a voxel sphere to get the idea of the workflow Just youtube some tutorials, there's enough out there to learn. it has a great set of tools to make life simple. just make sure u have awesome normals! i personally manually reotopo using 3d coat. You can optimize the topology and still have the same results. Im not sure how many polys you're aiming for, but the current state of the dinosaur in the pic looks a lil too much.
#3D COAT AUTO RETOPO TUTORIAL PLUS#
plus you don't really have control over where the edge loops are placed. its really only used for really organic stuff, or if you want a really quick retopo for a quick presentation, that you will change in the end, or for like busts of a character.as i can see in your image(sorry im not posting another pic) i see that the toes of the dinosaur don't have geometry, which you can add on in another program but i hate the hassle. Even then there will be quite a bit of clean-up, but it's a great way to get started. For now you just have to do a test to see what poly density is best, then go in and do a proper edgeflow cut pass and run it for a proper pass. It's kinda ghetto and I hope they can refine that, cause it would be a huge help. Sadly, as far as i know, there is no way to save the auto-retopo mid way, or re-run it with the topology cuts you made. Once you run the auto retopo, just cut the mesh along the midline, delete the worse half and reactivate symmetry for further tweaking. In case you dont know ( I didnt ) you can start dragging outside the mesh from top to bottom and release to get a perfect cross section cut that goes all the way around.
#3D COAT AUTO RETOPO TUTORIAL ISO#
You need it to be iso to be more or less symmetrical. draw your topology lines across the entire intersection of the dino in an isometric side view, as if you're slicing him like a loaf of bread along his mid section. I'd recommend turning off symmetry when you're doing the Autoretopo.
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